measuring antenna distance for diversity
3.) Ok, so I read a few articles from Cisco on setting the proper distance between the antenna for diversity to work correctly. Well, after all that it turns out you need to keep the antenna’s 1 wavelength apart, which for our purposes is 4.91 inches. You can go more that that and not have much affect, but it seems you need to keep it 4.91″ or more…less is bad. In our case, less is bad anyway because you start running into internal components that I would rather not drill into… I measured about 5 inches and marked my spots to drill.
Drilling the linksys e2500
E2500 after drilling and inserting pigtail
E2500 after drilling and inserting pigtail
Now the fun begins,
The gray colored wires are the 2.4Ghz antenna cables, they are soldered to the board.
The black colored wires are the 5.0 Ghz cables, they are connected to the board with a tiny snap-in connector (if anyone knows what these are called let me know!)
4.) Heat up the solder on the gray wires with a solder gun and remove the wires from the board.
Notice that there are actually two solder points here, one that connect the outer sheath of the cable (the larger solder drop), and one that connects the tiny, tiny, tiny wire that runs in the middle of the cable. If you are 40 or over, get out your bifocals! Or at least a good magnifying glass! I personally couldn’t see the tiny wire very well until I took the digital picture and zoomed in.
- Here are the original internal antennas, remove them.
Remove the old internal antennas, you won’t need them.
Cut antenna wire
5.) Cut the new antenna cable that will be soldered to the board. (make sure you have enough length to get this done right, my kit had 4 different lengths of cable and I had to move them around to make sure all four would fit and leave enough slack for me to solder.)
(CLICK PAGE 3 BELOW to continue!)
Thanks for the instructions!
You’re welcome, glad you could use them!
You could just cut the original antenna wire, and the new one and splice them together to save yourself a soldering job, and to make sure it’s soldered perfectly.
Not a good idea actually a bad idea because you will ruin any chance of the outer shield braiding to do its job and so introduce much noise and signal drop to poorer than poor. Try it, and you can see. Whirling very important. Cutting corners not good.
Oops not “Whirling”.
SHIELDING very important.
I shoulda proof read doh
you can do that but it will most likely to reduce the tx power by 1dbm.
THANKS!
How hard is it to solder for a first timer or splice wires ? I’m considering doing this instead of buying an asus rt ac68u with wifi extenders, etc the works (expensive lol) but just upgraded to 150mbps ‘blast!’ Upgrade from Comcast but 8t hasn’t helped much…. also, what do you guys think about a yagi wifi 15dbi atenna? Is it even possible to use one.with the.linksys n60p? (Off topic but – can you believe 505mbps is their fastest wifi package but it costs 499.99 use a MONTH, and yes its a home service not business lol. Who has that much money man… it sucks 150mbps or 505 nothing inbetween. Most routers can transmit far more yet the ips don’t provide those speeds at all; let alone for a reasonable price.)
I am doing this same mod but for the 2.4GHz portion I am using the empty pads to solder in two U.fl coax connectors to match the 5GHz connectors. That way I don’t have to worry about botched solder jobs like what commonly happens soldering the coax directly to the PCB.
Hey this quide is great any chance we could see any higher resolution images, Im curious about the 4 wires and where they got soldered to….Thanks
I ordered the antennas and today when I had some time unplugged my router and opened it up. It’s a E2500 but it only has two antennas. One grey and one black. Since I had the antennas and the router open I went ahead and installed one of each but wondering why I have single antennas and yours has dual ??